Off shoulder bustier pattern drafting / beginners guide (2023)


#offshoulder #bustier #pattern

In this video I shared how to draft an off shoulder bustier
please watch till the end and let me know what you think about the video in the comment session

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Hey viewers welcome back to the channel today.

My name is Jose Tale on today's video I'm going to be sharing with you guys how I drafted out this off shoulder burst here.

If there's something you're interested in keep on watching and let's go straight to the tutorial.

Welcome back guys, as you can see, I already have the pattern paper on the table.

What I'm going to be doing first is I'm just going to fold it together like this.

The way you see me doing so, you're just going to fold your pattern paper together like this okay, then after you're done folding you're going to bring your ruler and your tape so right now the first thing I'm going to do is to roll a line there, which is going to serve as my starting line so guys after rolling that line now I'm just going to go ahead to take the body measurement.

So you know it's an off shoulder burst here, so I'm going to be minusing 5 inches from my shoulder to both Point measurement, so I'm just going to take out the five inches while I take my measurements, so I'll measure to the boss point which is 9 inches I.

Take it to the on the bus, which is 13, inches and I, will take the half length of this um bustier, which is 16 inches I'll, be adding extra one inch for the joining allowance.

I'm just going to go ahead.

To do the same thing here you take away your five inches.

You measure your nine, your 13 inches and your 16 plus extra one inch so, in other words, I'm just going to connect the dots so guys.

After doing this now, the next step is for us to um I'm, just going to go ahead and label this first of all so I'll cut this.

The chest line here is the boss.

Point here is the on the bust, and here is the waistline okay.

So now after we are done labeling we are just going to go ahead and um.

The first thing I'll do now is to come to the boss points.

You see, I'll come to the bus point Sorry the boss point then I'm going to take the nipple to nipple measurement divided by two.

So mine is about seven and a half I divide it by two, so I'm going to take it here, then I'll come to the waistline and take exactly the same thing.

Then I will connect the dots so guys now that I'm done connecting that dot.

Now the next step is to come to this chest line.

You see what I have on this uh boss point I'm going to be adding extra one inch to what I took on the bus point and the waistline.

So that's what I'm going to take on the chest line you see guys then I'll connect it to meet the boss point just like this.

It's clear right so guys after we are done doing this now.

The next step is for me to come to the on the bus area.

I'll be going out by 1.5 inches.

Then I'll go to the waistline go out by 1.5, then I will come to the on the bus again go in by half inch go to the waistline, go in by half inch.

Okay, now I'm going to connect the dots so guys.

Now that I'm done doing that now.

The next step is for me to come to the boss, Point here I'll go down by 1.25 inches.

Okay, how deep you go down totally depends on how big the boss is.

For my bust of 35 inches 1.25 is totally perfect, but for a person with a bigger boss, you go down by one and half or two inches.

Okay, so right now guys I'm going to use the cover letter to make a call from that point to Mint the 1.25 I came down by so you're just going to make a curve like this.

Oh sorry, guys you're just going to make sure you place it.

Well, then you make it cough.

Just like that.

Okay, you see what we have now, then I will use the Straight filler to connect from that other point to meet the 1.25 brother as well, so guys.

This is what you're going to have after doing that.

Okay, now the next step is I'm going to come to the chest line, I'll be going out.

Sorry, first of all, I'll be coming in by one inch.

Okay, you come in by one inch, then you will go out by 0.75 inches.

So that's what you're going to do there then, with the cover I'll connect it to me the boss point so I'll just connect from that point there to meet the boss points and I'll try and blend everything.

Okay, you see, so you just have to blend everything.

Then I will use the Straight flat to condense from the other point to meet the boss points so guys.

This is what you're going to have after doing that.

Okay, now guys, the next step is to come to the chest line and I'm going to be going down by two inches.

Okay, so you're just going to mark two inches, then you roll a straight line just like this.

So after doing that, I'll come to the neck area.

How wide I want the neck to be is about 10 inches, so I'm going to be taking 10 inches divided by two, which is 5 inches, then I'm going to make a DOT.

There then I'll measure what I have here, which is that we are going to be cutting off then I'll be adding it to the five inches okay, so you're just going to mark it and now I'll be using the curve ruler to make an armhole curve connecting or from the points to meet that straight line.

Just like this, you see guys.

So this is what you're going to have now.

After doing that, guys I'm just going to come to the neck area, then I'll be going down by about um, 1.5 or 2 inches, so I'm just going to go out, go down by 1.5 inches, then I will use the curvula to make a v-like neck.

So you're just going to do something like this.

Do you see what I'm doing guys we're just going to make a v-neck like that? Okay, so this? Is it now guys? The next step is for me to go ahead and take all the round body measurement.

So on this new um chest line that we have I'm just going to take the bust measurements divided by four okay, then I'll mark it then I'll measure this that this that I have here, I'll be adding it to it.

Then I'll add extra.

Two inches sewing allowance.

Okay, then I'll come to the waistline and take the waist measurement divided by four I'll mark.

It measure this dots that I have here and add it to it, add extra two inches so in allowance then I'm going to connect the dots so guys.

Now that I'm done doing this, the next step now is I'm just going to go ahead to cut this out.

This is what I have after I was done, cutting guys you can see how nice it came out.


So this is how to draft a bust here, okay and off shoulder burst here.

So right now I'm just going to place this aside.

Then we go ahead to cut out the back.

I already have the pattern paper folded into two on the table just the way we did for the front guys so right now.

What I'm going to do is I'm just going to be rolling the line here which is going to be for the zipper allowance.

Okay, then, after rolling the line, guys I'm also going to really line here which is going to serve as my starting line.

So now guys I'm, just going to um, take out five inches just the way we did for the front, then I'll mark nine inches, which is the boss point then I'll take it to the waistline, which is 16 inches and extra one inch, so in allowance I'll just do the same thing at this other end and I'm going to go ahead to connect the dots so guys.

Now that we are done doing that I'm just going to come to this neck area.

Here you see how wide our neck was was 10 inches, so we divided it by two.

We have five so I'm just going to be taking the five inches.

I will add extra half inch for the draining allowance.

Then here I'm going to be coming down by two inches just the way we did for the front, and now we roll the straight line, then I will use the cover letter to connect from that point.

I have to meet the straight line, just exactly what we did for the front guys.

So that's what you're going to do to create the armhole now guys, um I will be coming down on this neck area.

By about you know, um 0.75 inches, because I don't want the back neck to be exactly flat, so I just want it to be a little bit curvy.

So you just want to do this.

Okay, then, after doing that guys I'm going to um go ahead and take the body measurement divided by four, so I take the boss measurement divided by four.

There, then I'll actually mean she's doing allowance.

I come to the waistline.

Take the waste management divided by four.

Add one inch for the dots and extra two inches for the sewing allowance.

Then connect the dots so guys.

After doing this, now I'm going to come to this waistline I'll be going in by half inch this um in order for me to eliminate anything like a z, bulge, okay, so you're just going to Mark half inch and connect it to the boss points just like this, so because we reduce it by half inch I'm, also going to be reducing um.

These zipper allowance here by half inch as well so I'm, just going to go in by half inch and as well I'll connect it to meet the boss point.

So this is what you're going to have I'm just going to extend this line here.

Okay, so guys now that we are done doing this, the next step is for me to take the dot so I'm just going to come to the waistline and I'll measure, the nipple to nipple measurement divided by two they'll mark.

It I'll come to the boss point and do the same thing.

Okay, then I'm going to connect the dots.

Okay, then, after doing that, I will come to this waistline I'm going to be measuring half inch on both sides of that line.

This is what I did guys.

Then I'll come here and come down by one inch, then I'm going to be connecting the half inch to to meet during one inch that I brought that at that post point just like this, then you do the same thing to the other side.

Okay, so this is what you're going to have now that we are done doing this guys I'm just going to go ahead now to cut this out so guys.

This is what you're going to have after you are done, cutting it out.

Okay, there is something I do remember to tell you guys when we drafted at the front.

You know when we took the nipple to nipple measurement for the front.

We didn't add any extra half inch for the joining allowance.

Okay, so when you are using this now to cut out on fabric I'm, going to add half inch to all the sides like this okay, you also add half inch to this side.

You're not going to be adding anything to the other side, because we already took the allowance there, so the half inch is going to be for only the sides.

Okay, so that is it.

This is how to draft out your very own off shoulder box here guys and we are going to be using this particular pattern paper to cut on fabric in our next tutorial and I'm, going to be sharing with you guys how to make an off shoulder.

Bustier crop top.

Okay, so guys, that's it for this video.

If this is the first time you are seeing any of our videos this first time we are watching any of our tutorial videos.

You are highly well accomplished, Endeavor to hit the Subscribe button.

Thank you guys for watching I'll, see you in my next tutorial.



How do you draft the basic front bodice pattern? ›


Draw a rectangle using the following measurements: Point 1 to 2 = ¼ bust measurement + 1cm + 0.5 cm (for ease). Point 1 to 3 = front waist length. Now close off the rectangle making sure it is perfectly squared (each corner should be a 90º angle).

How do you draft a bodice block from measurements? ›

Mark the intersection point as X. Find the midpoint of line XW. Mark as point Z. Take the distance from the CENTRE FRONT to BUST POINT (i.e length from E to BP or half bust apex to apex measurement plus 0.5cm) and mark this distance on line HI, measuring from the dart arm closest to CENTRE back.

How do you draw pleats on a pattern? ›

Basic tutorial
  1. Draw lines where you want the pleats to be. Number each and measure the width.
  2. Take another piece of paper and start copying from the first space upwards. ...
  3. Fold all the pleats so that you'll see the original shape of your pattern piece. ...
  4. Cut and open the folds.
Mar 17, 2018

What measurements do you need to make a corset? ›

For most corsets, you'll want to subtract 3–4 inches from your waist size to determine the corset size. For example, if your natural waist is 30 inches, you would subtract 3 inches and look on the sizing chart and that would give you your proper size.

What are the steps in pattern drafting? ›

We'll cover the simple 4-step process for pattern drafting:
  1. Measurement. Taking the proper measurements to build a pattern.
  2. Detailing. Creating dIfferent collar types, specifically for T-shirts.
  3. Materials. Selecting materials for a desired fit.
  4. Paper Drafting. Drafting the paper pattern.

What is the basic pattern making? ›

It is the art of manipulating and shaping a flat piece of fabric to conform to one or more curves of the human figure . Pattern making is a bridge function between design and production. A sketch can be turned into a garment via a pattern which interprets the design in the form of the garment components (Cooklin).

What body measurements should be taken in drafting a bodice pattern? ›

To get started creating your basic bodice pattern, you'll need your basic measurements and pattern drafting tools.
  • Basic Measurements.
  • Waist measurement.
  • Hip measurement.
  • Bodice length: You'll measure from the highest point of your shoulder to your desired bodice length.
  • Neck measurement.

How do you grade between sizes in bodice? ›

How do I grade between sizes? Basically, you'll just draw a line between the notches at the different points on the pattern where you need different sizes. Make sure you make the same changes on all your pieces and that the seams still line up after grading.

What is the difference between block and Sloper? ›

Sloper – this term is used to define a pattern for any object which does not have seam allowance. You will be using it to describe a clothing pattern. Block – this term is used to define a pattern for any object which has seam allowances and will be used repeatedly to create new patterns.

What is the difference between the front and back bodice pattern? ›

Virtually all pattern drafting systems assume a B cup size which results in a front pattern that is wider than the back by 1/2" on each side. As you increase the bust cup size, the front pattern width increases accordingly so for a D cup you may find that your front pattern is wider by 1" on each side.

How many layers of fabric are in a corset? ›

Your corset will consist of at least one layer of fabric, maybe two, three or possibly more. The main layer is called the 'strength layer' and, as the word suggests, needs to be composed of a fabric that is really strong, hard-wearing and non-stretch. The only fabric that can totally meet these criteria is coutil.

What is the best fabric to make a corset out of? ›

Coutil is the fabric of choice for corset making, as it is specifically made for corset making. It features a tightly woven herringbone weave, with no stretch in either direction. We carry 2 different qualities of Coutil. If you are making a corset for tight lacing or everyday use, we recommend the Stiff Coutil.

What is the 2 2 2 rule corset? ›

As Marianne mentioned in her piece on corset 'rules', one of the more common methods is the '2-2-2 rule': lacing your corset 2” closed for 2 hours a day for 2 weeks. It's a process that requires discipline and commitment to your corset, beyond what you would expect in another piece of clothing.

How many inches should a corset take off? ›

Breaking through the corset is another important thing that you should do to wear the corset comfortably later on. Follow all the necessary instructions and guidelines of corsetry. You can easily get a reduction of at least 3 to 4 inches in your waist after waist training for a couple of months.

How much gap should a corset have? ›

A 1-3 inch gap is generally fine for many people and it won't offset the seams of an OTR corset or the intended fit too much, even if your weight fluctuates by an estimated 5-10 pounds. One guideline for the maximum gap in the back of the corset is the distance between your Venus Dimples.

Can you sell clothes you make from a pattern? ›

Technically, unless the designer has gone through the extensive process of specifically Copyrighting the finished products, you can sell finished products made by any pattern out there as long as you make it known that you did not design it. What is this? My belief is that the PATTERN belongs to the designer.

Is there an app to create sewing patterns? ›

With MakeristAR you can easily transfer sewing pattern pieces directly from your smartphone to fabric using Augmented Reality!

What are the 3 steps in drafting? ›

The Three Steps of Drafting
  • Writing the First Draft. Think your ideas out loud before writing them down so that the thoughts are expressed clearly. ...
  • Re-Drafting. After completing the first draft, wait for a few days before editing it. ...
  • Writing the Final Draft.

What are 4 important tools needed to draft a pattern? ›

Tools used for pattern making and garment construction
  • Slopers/Blocks. Use cardboard to cut out pattern blocks (sometimes called Slopers). ...
  • Pattern paper. Pattern paper is used to draft patterns. ...
  • Pattern Notch. ...
  • Paper Scissors. ...
  • Measuring Tape. ...
  • Set Square. ...
  • Grading Ruler. ...
  • Sewing Pins.
Jul 6, 2022

What manual pattern drafting technique is the easiest and simplest to do? ›

Tracing: This is one of the easiest technique that is used. In this method a garment (similar to what a designer wishes to create) is placed flat on a paper and the pattern is traced.

What are the three 3 types of pattern? ›

There are 3 types of pattern:
  • Shape Pattern.
  • Letter Pattern.
  • Number Pattern.

What is the simplest design pattern? ›

Singleton (Creational)

This is probably the best known and the simplest to implement design patterns in software engineering. Overuse of the singleton pattern can be a sign of poor architecture but used strategically the singleton pattern is a tried and true solution to a lot of commonly reoccurring scenarios.

What is basic bodice pattern? ›

A basic bodice is the body of a blouse or top; the garment worn on the upper part of your body. A basic bodice block is a great starting point for creating endless designs; It can be used on its own or be paired with a sleeve block to make blouses, shirts, dresses, blazers, jackets and coats.

What is the skirt curve rule? ›

With the fabric marker or chalk, you'll want your friend to mark the point where your buttocks start to curve toward your back (mark 1) and where they start to curve out toward the hip (mark 2). In the front, you'll need to do the same thing, except the curve will be your tummy instead of your butt.

What is the standard shoulder to shoulder measurement? ›

Still, based on biacromial measurements taken in years passed and trends observed by researchers, it's probably safe to say that in the United States average shoulder width is at least 16 inches (41 cm) for men and 14 inches (36 cm) for women.

Do you measure shoulders all the way around? ›

Your Shoulders: This is the hardest measurement to do by yourself, so you really should ask someone to help. Place the measuring tape at the tip of one shoulder and wrap it all the way around you like a shawl until it meets back at the same shoulder.

What is shoulder to shoulder length? ›

The Shoulder to Shoulder measurement is taken ON THE BACK from one end of the shoulder to the other. Do not pull a straight line from these two points; follow the natural curve of the body. This measurement should be close to the length from a suit jacket's shoulder seam to the other.

What is shoulder width for in measurements? ›

This is where the horizontal part of the shoulder meets the vertical part of the arm. Measure up over the curve of the shoulders and to outside edge of the other shoulder.

How do you measure from shoulder to waist and measure it from the back? ›

Back shoulder-to-waist

It is measured from neck base until the waist, parallel to spine, just across the shoulder blade.

What measurement is broad shoulders? ›

Narrow Shoulders: 1.27 and below. Normal Shoulders: 1.32. Broad Shoulders: 1.38. Head-Turning Broad Shoulders: 1.42.

Are off shoulder tops out of style? ›

Cold-shoulder tops are outdated and not nearly as inspired as what's been on the runways as of late, according to Newman.

How do you hide bra straps on one shoulder top? ›

The simplest solution is to put on your normal bra, then slide the straps off your shoulders and underneath your arms. Tuck the straps into the band and the cups to keep them contained, then put on your off the shoulder top.

Why wear off-the-shoulder tops? ›

Comfort: While you might think wearing an off-the-shoulder top can be a little tricky or limiting, they are actually quite comfortable. Most of the styles I own are a little more oversized which can be worn tucked or un-tucked.

How do you make a strapless dress with a bra? ›

Turn your regular bra into a strapless bra that actually stays up. Take a regular bra and extend the straps as far as they'll do. Put your bra on, and then pull each strap over your head so it wraps around your ribcage, and voila — your straps are no longer visible under any strapless clothing.

How do you draft a pattern off a dress? ›

Make a paper pattern from the old dress
  1. Turn the dress inside out, flat ; make sure it is not stretched or skewed in any way. ...
  2. Keep the center fold line along a long edge of the paper.
  3. Take off the dress and Make the lines clearer with a sketch pencil. ...
  4. Draft the front pattern the same way as you did the back.

What neckline is a strapless dress? ›

Straight. Modern and clean, a straight neckline is often seen on strapless dresses.

How do you hide bra straps for off shoulders? ›

Stylist Tip: If you're in a pinch and want to know how to hide bra straps, it's simple. Put on your normal bra but leave the straps off your shoulders and arms. Instead, tuck them into the cups and secure any puckering with fashion tape. Remember, this is a quick-fix method and not for long wear.

How do you wear a bra with a backless dress? ›

How to Tie Your Backless Dress Over Your Bra
  1. Take the first side of your tie and pull it over your bra. ...
  2. Take the second side and tuck it under both your bra and the other side of the tie at the middle of your bra on the bottom. ...
  3. Pull both sides of the tie to the middle and tie a knot. ...
  4. Tie your bow!
Jul 13, 2022

Can I make a dress without a pattern? ›

The easiest garments to make without a pattern tend to have minimal shaping, but as you get more experienced, you can practise using a wide range of shaping techniques to give the tailored look you want. Darts are one of the simplest techniques, though they can take a bit of practice to master.

How do you wear a dress pattern without cutting it? ›

An alternative to the pencil and paper method is to use carbon paper and a tracing wheel. Place the carbon paper between the pattern piece and your blank paper; once you have the hang of it then this can be a lot faster than tracing with a pencil. Some people even transfer the pattern directly onto their fabric!

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